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Motor Mount Replacement - 78 J-10Contributed By: Brian Moake Lindel and I changed the motor mounts on my 78 J10 today. Since this wasn't on the site anywhere I could find... These mounts look rather strange when you pull them out of the box because they look like they have two smooth studs sticking out on either side. These are just protective caps that cover the threads and just unscrew...Some have blue caps that are a little more obvious. Both of my mounts were broken so I had to do a double replacement. If you are going to replace both of them and one is still holding, I would recommend doing one at a time starting with the broken one. This will keep the engine in the right area for re-attachment. My engine had shifted back about 2". Lindel graciously offerred to assist with his expertise. We went to my parents house since my step-father is an ex-drag racer and still has his tools. We started out from his house, and I hear a strange noise...Ther rear wheel tried to come off. We stopped, tightened it up and was off again. Suddenly, a bang and there is no power...we coast to a place to turn off and realize the tc shifted into nutral...no biggie except it won't stay in hi. So we make it to a parking lot and I disconnect the shift lever and we make it the rest of the way. We start off by jacking up the motor (with a piece of 1/4" plywood between the oil pan and jack) with a 5ton floor jack. and used air tools to remove the old nuts and bolts. There are 2 nuts that are easily accesible on the bottom of the mount. There are 3 bolts that hold the top mounting bracket to the block. once you get all of these out you can pull these pieces out and separate the top half of the mount from the top bracket. Whe you go to attach the rubber mounts to the top bracket be sure to put the "fish tail" looking piece on the high side of the engine. There is a little lip on the bottom bracket that will interfere with this keeping it from laying flat. It is much easier if you start with the single bolt side once you get the mount twisted in to place. There is two sets of bolt holes on the bottom bracket. Stock position for the mount is the front set. My engine had shifted so far back that I had to use the back set. My diff is on the pass side with the starter, which makes it very difficult to reach the rear bolt on the top bracket. A really REALLY BIG THANKS goes out to Lindel, without his help I would still be trying to get those things out...
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