Rhino Conversion - hood latch question

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  • bredlo
    232 I6
    • Mar 21, 2008
    • 26

    Rhino Conversion - hood latch question

    Hey all,

    So I've removed my 1970 grill and bulky corner turn signals, carefully removed the mounting tabs, and I'm test fitting the rhino grill in it's new home.

    The hood release latch is sitting in a tricky little place, above a steel plate that runs the full width of the engine bay (shown in blue). It has the mounting hole for the top center of the rhino, but once it's on I can't open the hood any longer because the (blue) plate is now blocking the latch!

    Suggestions? Will I be switching to a different style bar and latch, or cutting away part of that (blue) plate? Even after all this, I'm guessing I'll have to use a long thin screwdriver or something to open the hood. I'm kinda stalling out here - maybe if you guys have a photo of your conversions it would help.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by bredlo; 06-11-2008, 09:14 PM.
    Brad
    ______________
    1970 Wagoneer - 350 Buick
  • mathman
    350 Buick
    • Sep 12, 2007
    • 785

    #2
    The hood latch for the Rhino grill has a long tab sticking almost straight down. This enters a matching hole in your blue plate area so the tab is sticking down behind the grill. To open, you just stick your hand through the slots in the rhino grill and pull on the tab. The hood latch on the left is for the Rhino setup - the one on the right was on my '78 from when someone put the '79 grill in:



    And this is a bent rhino latch still on the hood:



    Don't have a picture of the plate on the truck.
    David
    '78 J-10; '78 J-20 8400GVW
    '79 Cherokee
    '50 Willys (not Willy's) 4WD Pickup

    Comment

    • Bill Moore
      304 AMC
      • May 22, 2006
      • 2139

      #3
      there are two other routes, you can get the internal opener with the cable inside the truck to open, or you can look for the 79 or 80 model latch that has the hand bar off to the right side, these are the easiest to install as most trucks have the slot already cut. Mathman has the 79 there in his photo
      Bill
      Last edited by Bill Moore; 06-12-2008, 04:47 AM.
      DDs
      67 KJ715 4bt AA OD 465 np205
      78 J20 Chevy 305 nv4500 np205

      Projects

      Sons Build 1980 short bed J10, j20 axles, 4bt, nv4500, np205, shortened M715 bed and fenders

      Freedom is not Free, it is paid for with Blood

      Comment

      • Poley
        360 AMC
        • Mar 22, 2003
        • 2504

        #4
        I remover the latch bar altoghter and went with hood pins, I like them alot better then the PITA latch system. just my $.02
        Fullsized Gets it DONE!!!!

        Comment

        • Brad W.
          360 AMC
          • Jan 09, 2003
          • 2719

          #5
          I agree Poley, I can't count on one hand how many times that friggin latch has wounded my noggin while making a repair or just checking fluids.
          Brad W.
          1979 wag "Nightmare"
          **project shelved indefinetly**

          m715 ex-firetruck
          **project shelved**

          2001 Dodge Ram 2500 "Project Juggernaut"
          24v-CTD/NV-4500/quad-cab/4x4
          4" straightpipe, rollin on beadlocked 37's.
          Big as a freight train, as loud as one too.

          Comment

          • mathman
            350 Buick
            • Sep 12, 2007
            • 785

            #6
            Originally posted by Bill Moore
            Mathman has the 79 there in his photo
            Bill
            Wasn't sure that one was actually a '79 latch - glad to know it is for when it comes time to sell it off.
            David
            '78 J-10; '78 J-20 8400GVW
            '79 Cherokee
            '50 Willys (not Willy's) 4WD Pickup

            Comment

            • bredlo
              232 I6
              • Mar 21, 2008
              • 26

              #7
              All good suggestions, thanks guys. The cable release sounds above my skill level, and the pins isn't really up my alley (right now I'm in the mode of patching holes... not drilling new ones).

              So I guess I'll look into finding or fabricating a rhino hood latch. If anybody wants to get rid of one, I'm buyin!
              Brad
              ______________
              1970 Wagoneer - 350 Buick

              Comment

              • KaiserMan
                I got the Willys....
                • Jun 21, 2005
                • 8702

                #8
                Just cut (or bend) the hand tab on your latch and weld it back into the correct spot (basically pointing down). You will have to cut a hole in the center of the radiator support (blue item in your pic) so the tab can sit behind the grille. No getting around that.
                Thomas Russell
                1987 Cherokee Laredo 2-Door 4.0/AW4
                1971 Gladiator
                J2000 Platform-Stake Dump 350/T18

                1970 Gladiator J3000 3407Z Camper Truck 350/T18
                1968 Wagoneer Custom 327/TH400

                Comment

                • bredlo
                  232 I6
                  • Mar 21, 2008
                  • 26

                  #9
                  Cool, Kaiserman. I can handle that.

                  Rather, I can't handle that but am already having several small holes and 2 big ones (where the turn signals were on the front 1/4 panels) filled, smoothed and painted... so why not this little important matter as well, I guess.

                  This will be one of the pricier rhino conversions out there I think, partly due to where I live - but should look good when finished.

                  Thanks for all the suggestions everybody.
                  Brad
                  ______________
                  1970 Wagoneer - 350 Buick

                  Comment

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