GW Wheel Bearing, Spindle Bearing, Rotor Replacement - Information (Many Pictures)

**Kevin718** · 02-20-2005, 01:57 PM

Pictures not included above:

Picture #9:

Picture #10:

**mdill9** · 02-20-2005, 02:37 PM

Looks like you got lucky ! Looking at your first pic, I would have expected to see the outer axle
stub and spindle to be to rusty to salvage.

Mike D.

**SpruceMoose** · 02-20-2005, 10:52 PM

nice timing! sure looks familiar! i replaced the pax side rotor and pads yesterday, and plan to do the drivers side today. forgot to buy new seals, so i managed to clean out the inner bearing and re-grease it while it was still in the housing.

btw, when you hear the tell-tale chirping from the front brakes, replace the pads before you need new rotors......

(too cold and too busy. thats my story and i'm sticking to it.)

sm.

**Joe's 89** · 02-21-2005, 12:29 AM

Heck..I didn't know the hub and rotor separated.

**SoCalCruiser** · 02-21-2005, 03:01 AM

Any more pictured of the spindle bearing job? I tore into both my front axles this last weekend, but didn't feel like getting into the spindles, although I should have.

Craig

**SoCalCruiser** · 02-21-2005, 03:05 AM

I almost forgot....where does the 'C' clip go, the first notch or the closest one to the center of the wag? I've always put mine closest to the center, but I just had all new ball joints installed and the guy (supposed to know Jeeps) put it on the outside notch.

Thx.

**Green Giant** · 02-21-2005, 04:05 AM

Clip goes in inner notch. Thread a bolt into the end of the spindle and pull it out enough to put the clip on.
But if I were you I would replace the u-joints on the axle shafts since you would have to repeat this process to get to them anyway.

**Joe's 89** · 02-21-2005, 04:29 AM

I wish we could put this in the FAQ's or something..GREAT reference material.

**Lambrewski** · 02-21-2005, 04:44 AM

Nice write-up - thank you. Do you have any pics or advice on removing and reinstalling the bearing races??

Does the spindle (caged) bearing just come right out, or is it pressed in?

Also - at pic#10 - does the axle just slide straight out (to have the U-joints replaced)?

Thanks again.

**Lambrewski** · 02-21-2005, 04:45 AM

.....and does anyone have a great writeup (with pics) on doing all this on a rear D44??

**Green Giant** · 02-21-2005, 06:52 AM

Do you have any pics or advice on removing and reinstalling the bearing races??

Brass punch to remove and a piece of 2X4 and the old race to install

Does the spindle (caged) bearing just come right out, or is it pressed in?

See above answer

Also - at pic#10 - does the axle just slide straight out (to have the U-joints replaced)?

Yes, be sure and vacuum out the axle tube before you re-install, they will be full of dirt. Shop vac with extensions worked for me.

.....and does anyone have a great writeup (with pics) on doing all this on a rear D44??

Haven't done this yet, but bearings are pressed onto axle shaft, means a trip to machine shop more than likely.

**Kevin718** · 02-21-2005, 11:05 AM

To answer some of the questions raised and comments made:

1. When I purchased the Jeep, the rotor was scored like that and I was told it was too deep to turn. So I just could not live with the squeaking anymore and finally replaced it. It is much better.

2. Here is probably the only additional spindle picture that I have that would be of any use to you.

Picture #11:
This picture shows the spindle with the bearing removed.

Picture #12:
This is a picture of the grease seal for the spindle. The large part goes on the axle, the small part on the spindle up against the bearing, and the plastic disc inbetween.

3. The snap ring goes in the notch towards the vehicle. The purpose of the spacer, or pressure spring and spring cup if you have those, is in my opinion not only to keep the drive gear lined up with the teeth on the hub, but also to put some pressure on the spindle grease seal. It is a lip seal that must be touching the spindle to provide any kind of seal. I think that if you put the snap ring on the outer notch, then the seal may not make very good contact with the spindle. And your drive gear may want to walk around.

4. Yes, the axle can just be pulled out. I did not pull it out very far because I had not researched how to put it back in.

Picture #13:
This is a picture of the spindle axle pulled out a little with the grease seal removed.

5. This is how I removed my bearings:
Wheel Bearing Races:
Since the wheel bearings are tapered roller bearings, the outer race is thick enough such that it sticks up above the raised part in the middle of the hub. I took a very large screwdriver and a hammer and knocked the races out that way. Note that you can scratch/gouge the seating surface in the hub. I did this, to a minor extent, and I used a Dremel to smooth the scratch back out. I probably should have used a brass drift or something like that.

Spindle Bearing:
This bearing was difficult to get out. Because of the raised part of the spindle (smaller inside diameter) just past where the bearing sits, you cannot take a screwdriver from the other end and drive this bearing out. I have a three jaw puller that can have its "jaws" (hooks, whatever) rotated to grab on the outside or the inside. So I got them inside the bearing, but there was nothing for the screw to push against. I tried a piece of suspended angle iron, but the jaws just wanted to slip off. So, I took a small socket (9mm I think) and wedged it inbetween the jaws to keep them from slipping out, and then used the screw to hold it in place. Then from the other end (outer end) I could use a large socket and extension and hammer to drive out the bearing by basically hitting the socket against the jaws of the puller. But make sure you have a replacement bearing, because the outer race/shell is thin. And you can see the damaged bearing in the lower part of picture #12.

Reinstalling Bearings:
As for reinstalling, like Green Giant said, there is nothing better than the old bearing. The spindle bearing was easier, since it is near the end. For the races of the wheel bearings, I found that the special nut tool that I had to buy worked very well to reach down into the hub and contact the old race to drive in the new race.

Sorry for the long bearing write-up, but it took me awhile to figure out how I was going to get that spindle bearing out. I am sure there is some special tool that will do the job very easily. I just don't have it.

**Green Giant** · 02-21-2005, 12:51 PM

Sorry for the long bearing write-up, but it took me awhile to figure out how I was going to get that spindle bearing out. I am sure there is some special tool that will do the job very easily. I just don't have it.

There is a small slide hammer with a tiny jaw puller(pilot bearing puller)link to Puller , I was able to get a loaner from Auto-Zone for the 1st one I did, just have to put up a deposit, or in the case of my 2nd hub, just carried the hub in with me and let them pull it.
But I still like my brass punch and 2X4.

Northern tool has a set of 3 brass punches cheap($6.99), I just put them on a grinder when they mushroom, and replace them when they get too short. Link to Punch set

**nograin** · 02-23-2005, 01:18 PM

Brad,
The best way to make your write up availble into the future is cut and paste it into html and send it and the pictures to LRRH.
You can check with him first for details and OK. Click on his screen name which is found at the very top where it says "Moderators"
I'm 99% sure he's the person who can put this over on the IFSJA web site under tech.

If that's confusing, or you need help, e-mail me.

GW Wheel Bearing, Spindle Bearing, Rotor Replacement - Information (Many Pictures)

GW Wheel Bearing, Spindle Bearing, Rotor Replacement - Information (Many Pictures)

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