How to remove body from frame procedure..?

[x98boardwell]

I own a two post lift and would like to lift the body off the frame on my 84 GW.

Is there any guidelines to go by? I want to ensure I remove what is needed but to not go overboard as well. The body can stay on the lift while I'm reconditioning the motor and frame so it should be a fairly simple task.. correct?

I searched but most body lifting was coming from the top or inside using a motor hoist to some extent.

Here is what I'm guessing:
- AC connections removed
- wiring harness removed from firewall.. what else here?
- body mounts unbolted (how many)?
- interior out... do seats bolt to frame and need to come out or no?
- gas tank down spout inside rear quarter panel
- bumpers.. anything on these or will these stay on frame?
- front fenders and clip, do these need to come off as well?

Thanks for any help!
Bryan

[babywag]

vacuum lines on firewall from engine
heater hoses
steering shaft @ steering column
shift linkage @ steering column
brake master cylinder from booster
cruise control vss wiring throttle cables and speedo cable
wiring connectors @ rear frame to tailgate and taillights
starter wires and ground cable
radiator hoses, fan shroud, trans. cooler lines
any wiring attached to firewall or engine bay that runs to engine

maybe few other things?

[babywag]

interior can stay, bumpers need to come off.

[Strode]

You'll probably find the body bolts just spin in the captive nuts. Mine was very rust free, but the rust got to there, and the 1/2 body bolt nuts wouldn't screw out.

So....that means cutting holes in the floor to access them (the nice little plugs in the floor don't access the nuts) to get to them and get them to hold. I cut out access holes in the 2 in the front, and the 2 in the rear. And I had to make new nut cages and weld them in. If that happens, you'll have to take out the carpet and deal with that. So just be aware of that possibility.

[babywag]

yep, body bolts are a real PITA.
before you try to remove body bolts drill a hole near caged nut and nuke the bolt and caged nut with pb blaster for several days.
use a good impact as well. pulling on them w/ standard breaker bar or ratchet will very likely just make the caged nut break loose and spin.

[x98boardwell]

Thanks!!

Guys, thanks for all the help. I will plan on tackling this very soon as my garage is finished and the lift is in!!

Anyone who is from CA interested in heading to the Fresno area for a "body removal party" let me know!!! I will gladly pay in beer, grub and laughs.

Unsure when I will start but would be a weekend for sure. Would hope to get body off in a day and I could start most of the work ahead of time to save the jobs for 4 hands or more until someone arrives...

Thanks again and message me if any interest your contact info and I will call!

PS.. Does anyone have a reference pdf or photo of what the body bolts look like and how many their are...? When I took my seats out to remove carpet for cleaning I had an issue with one of the bolts that was a little corroded but it was mainly due to threads being bad below which made it harder to loosen. Where are actual body bolts at?

Regards,
Bryan

[Tanker]

If done right 2 people 3 hands,can remove a GW in less then a day. Thats start at 0800 done by 1500. There are 2 bolts by the rear bumper.The way we do it here is start by hood,bumpers,engine bay striping. Leave drive train intake just move wires,vac lines,any lines hoses that go from fire wall to motor. If you take out the bolt on the fire wall thats in the middle of wire harness you can leave most of the wires in place. Front clip off then 8 body bolts. Dont forget fuel tank lines. Lift body off slowly to see what was over looked. Most bumper bolts we just tighten to break off.

[x98boardwell]

Update

Bumpers are off! Only spun one bolt in 1/2... all others loosened fairly easy with a couple that turned hard all the way until the end.

We'll see!

[x98boardwell]

update with pics

About to start on the body bolts.. all other items for the most part have been detached and are freed up from firewall.

[x98boardwell]

Question

I have two body bolts which are just spinning... what do I do? There is one in the rear and one on the drivers side underneath the cab.

Also, How do I access the ones above the leaf springs in the rear? I can't get an impact gun in there without an extension which isn't recommended... Should I take leaf spring off or try with breaker bar?

Any help from the experts would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Bryan

[babywag]

If they're spinning you'll need to open the floor somewhere above/around them, and tack weld the caged nut again.

Every toolbox should have one of these...worth it's weight in gold for hard to reach stuff with impact.

[x98boardwell]

pic

Tony, I cant see your attachment.

[babywag]

It's a 1/2" impact swivel. Has pin that holds socket to swivel and is perfect for jobs like this.

For some reason above link shows on my laptop, but not on my iphone?

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMPZY6uogrPffoihA_OzwDyiebmsLZJFbNHAsY8

Here's a similar one...

https://www.zoro.com/proto-impact-universal-joint-12-in-2-1516-in-j74470p/i/G1851114/?gclid=CPir_JG_v84CFQxmfgoddcMOGQ&gclsrc=aw.ds

[x98boardwell]

thanks

Thanks!

I did get those bolts off. One turned off and the other broke in two. I had to hold the nut (square in shape) on top with a 30mm wrench to break both of them loose. The cage which surrounds and holds the square nut was allowing the nut to spin so I had to pry off to get the wrench on it.

The other two nuts I am cutting rubber body o-rings and cutting with saw jaw. Will drill later to gain access once body is off.

[j2sax]

Cut the bolts and remember the firewall!

So to save time, get a good hole saw and make nice clean holes above your spinning bolt. Cut off the head of the bolt from underneath then come back inside and pull the cut bolt through... buy replacement bolt and use a new nut to may a better frame nut.

I use at least 3/16 metal, drill a hole through it and cut it in the shape of a diamond so that it barely fits in the cavity diagonally. round of the edges so it does not cut through. weld your nut to it and VOILA! your own heavy duty frame nut. if you ever need to remove the body again, you should be good.

Also, remember that the firewall is HEAVY, so, especially if the tailgate is off, your body is going to be weight biased to the front.

Enjoy!