Mudbull-68 Gladiator diesel build-need help deciding things...

[The PIG Smith]

Wow...good looking donor!

[Mudbull]

Thanks! the bodys a bit rough, but no dents, just missing the dually flares. the a/c controls are missing some vacuum lines but the power windows and locks even work. Its going to be really tough to tear into it because mostly everything still works...but I think the trans has something wrong with it. For an instant when i was test driving it, it began to shake real bad, but only once in the run (torque converter lockup or overdrive is probably bad). Even with that i couldnt have been more fortunate (or lucky) in finding it. It has 272,000 miles on it, but starts up pretty easily. The motor is all stock, no mods. The diffs have 3.54 gears, the rear is a posi D80...wish me luck down the road with all the wiring i have to do.

[The PIG Smith]

...but I think the trans has something wrong with it.

From my reading on the 4BTSwaps.com's forum...most all automatics behind Diesels from the factory if left stock will fail.
Most everyone on 4BTSwaps that run automatics rebuild them to stronger specs.

[The PIG Smith]

Also, I'll bet you if you cleanup that Clifford intake from your old I6, you could sell it here to help fund your Cummins project.
Those are desirable aftermarket intake for the folks running an I6

From the looks at the cab and bed on your truck, you are gonna need all the $$$ you can get!

[Mudbull]

Yea, Ive really only heard bad things about the automatics behind the Cummins. I think it has a new torque converter in its future, as well as a shift kit or valve body-those seem to be the two upgrades everyone does. Im not going to do too many changes to the cummins, maybe a bit more boost and turn up the pump.

I have the intake for sale on here..possibly a sale pending. This project is definatly on a tight budget. The ram (90% of everything works) was a great deal and I can re-use everything in it-down to the wiring harness. I think only need gauges, the trans upgrades, and floor pans. I am going to cut the bed floor out of the ram and weld it onto the thirftside, it should almost look stock when im done.

[Mudbull]

Ive been taking some measurements and doing some research and heres what ive got: Sorry if the measurements are hard to read, i know how to properly label this stuff, just dont have the time...at least i know what it means haha


The red rectangle on the dodge is the region of the frame that im going to cut (34" needs to be cut). The section is a 10" tall C-channel, not boxed in like under the cab. The only thing that has me worried is that the cut will be ~8-10" from the spring mounts.
The 3500 is now registered and insured and I have driven it about 100 miles, its slow as can be, but it sure is fun! What i thought to be a lockup issue when the whole truck would violently shake until i decelerated-turns out to be "death wobbles" due to loss of caster from the 2.5" lift and worn front suspension parts (good news? haha). Looking at my schedule i wont be able to take the ram back home until the 30th. That weekend i should be able to cut/ re-weld the frame, and start swapping dodge parts for kaiser stuff!

[mud89]

Ive been taking some measurements and doing some research and heres what ive got: Sorry if the measurements are hard to read, i know how to properly label this stuff, just dont have the time...at least i know what it means haha


kaiser stuff!

If it's a J3000, the wheelbase should be 126'', and if it's a J2000 the wheelbase should be 120". The J3000s were shorter than the J20 (131'' WB)
Do you have the VIN, i just like figures and numbers
By the way, as said by another member thriftside are rare, and we like them.

[Mudbull]

haha thanks, i intend to ressurrect the thriftside bed now that i know what it is (the floor of the beds really the only 'bad' part). By grafting the floor of the dodge's bed into the thriftside, it should look stock instead of using a sheet of steel diamond plate like the previous owner had. I dont have the VIN # handy, but the emblems and measurements make it out to be a J2000 (120").

[mud89]

good luck for your project
usually the vin plate is on the driver door jamb, but sometimes it's missing..

[J300Zack]

I'm keeping a close eye on this one because I'm planning the same exact swap with my '65 J300. I've done some research and hope to chime in if I can help. Good Luck and can't wait to see some more progress!!

[76FSChief]

Reading your thread we share a couple of different ideas. First is the Cummins swap, and secondly wanting to run 37" tires.

Not sure on your thoughts on the subject but I am going with M715 fenders in the front and cutting the rear quarters up on my Chief to make a 715 style lip on the back corners. There are a few different threads with J20 rigs running a similar set up if you want to check it out. The fenders allow for bigger tires without having to run a big lift and raising the center of gravity.

Something to check out anyways. Look forward to seeing more of your build.

[lobie]

Reading your thread we share a couple of different ideas. First is the Cummins swap, and secondly wanting to run 37" tires.

Not sure on your thoughts on the subject but I am going with M715 fenders in the front and cutting the rear quarters up on my Chief to make a 715 style lip on the back corners. There are a few different threads with J20 rigs running a similar set up if you want to check it out. The fenders allow for bigger tires without having to run a big lift and raising the center of gravity.

Something to check out anyways. Look forward to seeing more of your build.

Understand the fenders and tires but what's your different idea about the cummins?

[76FSChief]

Ah sorry didnt mention the Cummins swap, as for that I kept the entire Dodge running gear so nothing really unique there IMO. Took the engine apart and threw in some new bearings, had a local machinist make up a new piece to repair the transfer case. Threw a new set of gaskets while torn apart and bolted the whole thing into the Jeep frame.

Trying to keep it as simple as possible.

OH and just reread my reply - that should be SIMILAR ideas NOT different!! Guess i need more coffee!

[Mudbull]

Thanks guys for keeping an eye on my build..hopefully you can help keep me in line later when i actually start doing things. I havnt looked into how 37's would fit, but ive read that putting the J's body onto a ram frame is good for a few inches in height. The ram has worn 35's rite now, so i should be able to gage fitment issues before buying 37's.
Ive been doing a lot of research and talking with my friend whose into 94-98 rams. I was considering a doing an auto to manual swap (nv4500 or zf5/6), but im starting to think its not worth it, and ill just rebuild the the 47re auto myself to handle 4-500hp (valve body, billet input shaft, new clutch packs, and triple disk torque converter).

Apparently the frame trade is back in conversation. My friends cousin likes the extended wheelbase trucks, and wants my cab/frame. In trade ill get my friends 134" frame.

EDIT: I was talking with my friend and he said it would be fine if we cut, welded, and painted the frame up here so that when we take it down south to put the kaiser onto it, it will be finished. So it will still be a 120" wheelbase.

Ill still be going home the 30th to work on some cab rust, and to park the ram, but will have to wait on my friend to bring the 134" frame down to me.

[Mudbull]

Well, heres a quick update after a 10hr day.



To keep costs and conversion hassles down (read wiring hassles) I am installing the ram gages into the kaiser dash, heres what i have so far:



Somehow in the mock-up i already managed to break the PCB, 3 of the 4 gauges arent working now!

I had to take ~3" out of the glove box door:



Ive gotten started on welding the floors together. I was initially going to buy the stamped pans, but decided the floor layout was simple enough i just bought some 16ga steel and am piecing it together slowly. Edit: pics of the floor work. Drivers side is way worse (thats why i started on the passanger side).