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  #1501  
Old 04-27-2018, 10:19 PM
Kaiserjeeps's Avatar
Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
304 AMC
 
Join Date: Oct 02, 2002
Location: Mooseville Northern Idaho
Posts: 1,766
I know full well Team Grand Wagoneer can be a royal pain in the arse to deal with. In 2014 I made a very large order, got shipped half of it, then when asking where the rest of my missing order was I got accused of being dishonest and trying to get free stuff. Today I get a call from the post office 40 minutes away that I had a package waiting for me from TGW that had postage due. I checked my order and I was charged 20 bucks for a box the exact size of a glove box. I sent them a note on how they owe me 5 bucks and the light small box they sent did not cost 25 bucks to ship. They could be a great company. For years now they continue to fall way short. Look at the sticky's on this site.
I got my order. Everything was actually in it. But it could not be a normal order for nothing. They suck period. I feel a little better now.

So on the way out the door to pay my Team Grand Wagoneer ransom I got a call that the items I took in to Spokane for new chrome were done. Road trip. Off I went. I got everything back and it looks pretty good. I was hoping they would do a better job on the tailgate jeep key lock emblem and the four wheel drive emblem. They look really good but I have seen better chrome work. The improvement is super though. Especially the door handles.



Another view.



My dirty fingerprints all over it. I will get paint in maybe tomorrow.
I will make a new stainless smooth button head stud for this to swing away on.



Not to bad really... These look a million times better.



A door handle in place. They look great!





My TGW fun sitting here.



This is the SS window lifter channel I made. I need to improve on it some. And I will. It needs to be a little more narrow. This SS material offers way superior grip strength and better spring tension than the mild steel channels.
Plus no rust ever. The 1/32 setting tape showed up today. So I will dial these in and slip them on Sadies windows. I don't know why I get such a big kick out of making stuff from scratch. I appreciate a challenge.



I was invoiced for the better looking USA made tailgate ribbed panel material. So I should have a few sets done soon. I will get them out to the 5 members that have asked.
I am looking at a new used tool on Monday that should help me make better stuff. Hopefully that will pan out. Regardless, I can make nice pairs of them and should be able to knock them out when everything gets here.

The powder coating chop that is chroming the grills called again. The primer they baked on shows every little chip from 50 years of road use. Rather than pay 85 bucks an hour for them to sand them smooth, I am yet again driving there to pick them up and bring them back to the shop for another rework. I am grateful they called and filled me in. I know they will look really good after all the time on each one. No big deal. The drive is pleasant through the back country.
The bugs are biting and the deer are back. Summer is here.
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Most users ever online was 656, 06-30-2007 at 09:50 PM.
I was there! Still waiting for my Tee shirt...

1969 1414X Wag,
1970 and 71 project J trucks
1970 Wagoneer Not Sadie
1953 Willy's wagon
1983 FJ60 wagon

Last edited by Kaiserjeeps : 04-27-2018 at 11:40 PM.
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  #1502  
Old 05-06-2018, 10:08 PM
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Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
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Join Date: Oct 02, 2002
Location: Mooseville Northern Idaho
Posts: 1,766
I just got back from a week an hour north Seattle cleaning out my dads storage unit. Thank you Bill (owner of Sadie) for coming and helping Liz and I. Not only did he crawl under my dads home and crawl through Sea otter poop with me, and help me fix all the damage they did, he helped me get the storage unit sorted and closed out. Quite a friend there. I brought way to much stuff home again. I was also fortunate enough to find a German Pfaff 145 walking foot sewing machine over in the area a couple weeks prior. I have been looking for a very long time for this specific model and this one has very little use and was a incredible deal. It will sew through nearly a 1/2 of leather. I will now be able to get into upholstery work.
It was a fantastic find.
So I returned home and as soon as I found a spot for everything I brought home, I went after the shop. I am way behind it feels. I have been trying to make 3 stainless steel window channels for the lift mechanism. I had to toss the first one as it was not quite right. I had better results with each one I made. I carefully removed the slotted part to glue on to the new ss parts. I shot blasted everything with glass bead first. When the panel adhesive is dry I will coat the slotted part with slip plate like I did for the tailgate glass.

The new SS channel and putting on the slotted part with 3M panel adhesive.
It will never pull apart. The stuff is insanely strong.



Here is the 3 that I made and a factory one for the back door I found in the shed that I cleaned and painted with rust bullet. The 1/32 bedding tape is there on the roll. Just like original.



Here is the part number. They have slow set, fast set etc.



Blurry but you can see I tried to reproduce the same bends. The outer side wall has an angled bend in it.



Got some emblems done. The Four wheel drive emblem looks 100 times better with some paint in it. I sprayed the Wimbledon white after masking and used a syringe with a super small flat tip for the gold. This was tough. I still have a little bit of clean up to do. I use a Q-tip shank cut off with a box knife and a light soak with lacquer thinner. Man do you have to be careful.



The chrome shop did not fill up all the pits. I had some issues with paint filling them and interrupting the edges. It looks good though. I need to find a SS round top smooth screw to put the key cover back on. Should not be to big a deal.
I was not able to paint the gold on the word Jeep. It does not look good by hand. So Chrome letters it is. All of that round emblem was done with a syringe and limited coffee....



I am also really bummed to report the new ribbed aluminum panels from the USA are a sea of scratches. I opened it up today to see how it looked. I wanted to knock out the tailgate panels this next week for everybody that asked. I need to call the company tomorrow. I paid stupid money for this and I can't do much with this. This is only part of it. If I have to I will use the UK product. It looks fine and the finish is not much different than the USA stuff. Just a little duller. Maybe it will buff out. I hope I don't have to put hours into just buffing. Ugh...
All of you that are patiently waiting, Please bear with me while I sort this out.



And tomorrow I have to go back and pick up both grills from the powder coater. They said the primer really brought out the super small chips and dings. So I will sand them this week instead of paying 85 dollars an hour for them to do it. Another 3 hour trip.... and then 3 more hours to get them back there. I am guessing 15 hours travel time running them back and forth by the time they get coated. Wow...

More as soon as I can git er dun.
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Most users ever online was 656, 06-30-2007 at 09:50 PM.
I was there! Still waiting for my Tee shirt...

1969 1414X Wag,
1970 and 71 project J trucks
1970 Wagoneer Not Sadie
1953 Willy's wagon
1983 FJ60 wagon

Last edited by Kaiserjeeps : 05-06-2018 at 10:28 PM.
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  #1503  
Old 05-07-2018, 11:38 AM
Kaiserjeeps's Avatar
Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
304 AMC
 
Join Date: Oct 02, 2002
Location: Mooseville Northern Idaho
Posts: 1,766
On the Tailgate panels. I have a replacement order coming. They roll it once a month. So I have to wait yet again. The salesman is going to hand select the material because it gets scratched before it gets rolled out by simple handling.
If this is an issue for anyone please PM me.
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Most users ever online was 656, 06-30-2007 at 09:50 PM.
I was there! Still waiting for my Tee shirt...

1969 1414X Wag,
1970 and 71 project J trucks
1970 Wagoneer Not Sadie
1953 Willy's wagon
1983 FJ60 wagon
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  #1504  
Old 05-19-2018, 10:58 PM
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Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
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Join Date: Oct 02, 2002
Location: Mooseville Northern Idaho
Posts: 1,766
I was hoping to get a post up soon. Busy is not the word for the last few weeks. I am almost done with my dads estate and I have been repairing everything from the neighborhood fire tanker truck from freeze damage to my moms subaru wagon so I can give it to my cousin who just had her transmission puke in her car. I don't want to give her a project she can't afford to fix. I believe I am just about caught up. So I took the grills back to the powder coater this last week. I should hear back real soon and will go pick them up. I found a satin black cerakote coating that looks exactly like the black on the grills. I did a compatibility test and it passed with flying colors. Bad PUN eh? The grills are going to be coated with a polyurethane clear. I had to make sure no wrinkling or problems would surface.

The test card they gave me.



I coated all the grill steel parts with it. According to the BATF using cerakote is gunsmithing activity. So when I say this will be a high caliber wagoneer, I am dead serious.



Now I have been doing a ton of online research and looking for the correct semi tubular rivets to put all the parts back together again. I found a very cool company. They are incredibly helpful and I am still waiting for the recent order I placed for the larger grill rivets. The division bars rivet order I placed for all four doors did come in and he included a ton of samples to see if they would help with the work.
This is the company.
https://www.rivetsonline.com/index.php

So I proceeded to replace the division bars on the rear doors. Now Team Grand Wagoneer sells these but I am tired of them. I ordered both metro molded parts (# WC-29-72) at 54 bucks, and Standard Products (Y 658X-72) at 33.95 bucks. There is a slight and probably insignificant difference. Standards have longer felts or whiskers.
If you order either or call the company and have them cut the 72 incher in half. You will still cut off about 4 inches for the final product. This will save a bundle on shipping and less chance of UPS ruining it like they like to do.



Metro has shorter whiskers.



I am putting the Metro division bars on the rear doors because they have extra linkage to make the window raise and lower. The front doors will get the Standard Products because there is only one lifter arm. I did test fit the bars on the windows and there is a slight difference in drag.

So Using the new brake lining super small semi tubular rivets and a really nice setting tool from Aircraft Spruce, I was able to duplicate the factory roll on the rivets without to much trouble. Jay Cee rivet company did send a setting tool that can be used with a hammer. I discovered the screw type and went after it. It was less than 40 bucks and works like a charm.
Do not bother with the cheaper one. It had bad reviews and this one did not.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/to/rivet_brake.html

I had to make a taller die to fit inside the division bar channel. I found a ruined riding lawn mower blade spindle that was hardened and it worked perfectly. It took a while with slow machining because it was hardened. But it will and has worked perfectly. The original is on the left.



So I marked and drilled out each hole to the exact same size as factory. I had trouble with the new whiskers being in the way till I figured out I could shear it with a punch and some twisting. It left a perfectly clean hole to insert the rivet in.



And putting it all back together. Look at all those samples they sent me.



So after doing both rear doors and a polish of the stainless on the buffer, I now have two completely rebuilt rear window glass assemblies. Now I need to figure out how to get all this in the door shell without ruining the wide lower glass seal. Trust me I have tried. I will figure it out.



It worked well. Very tight



I discovered the rivet tool will not work on the very top part of the front division bars. The angle of the vent glass and frame is in the way of the rivets. I have another tool on the way that I needed for the grill rivets. I hope it fits these. I may have to bend the metal frame part like the rear ones. One of the pictures above shows this minor bend. Except it will be a major bend if that is what I have to do. Hope not.

I have been making a plan for mounting the poly aftermarket gas tank. Sadie arrived at my shop with it. The mounts were not optimum. And I am making a new metal filler pipe out of mandrel bent 1.75 inch 16 GA steel pipe. The filler pipe from the rubber neck to the tank. The original was missing and the factory filler pipe is 1.5 inch with shrunken corners from the factory bender down to about 1 1/4 inch. So hopefully the bigger size and being mandrel bent will flow gas with some respectable speed. I am waiting for that to show up. I ordered some 3/4 gas vent hose from this very cool place. Gas tank parts O Rama!

https://www.fillernecksupply.com/1-3...union-44-51mm/

I also have my eye on a large single round dual inlet and dual outlet muffler for getting the exhaust done soon. It will be mandrel bent 2 1/4 pipe dual exhaust all the way back. Everything needs to be installed before exhaust gets ran. The engine compartment is just about done. I still need to rebuild the 4 barrel Rochester and get the matching air cleaner housing painted. I had to order a 11 MM alternator pulley. The alternator showed up with a 10MM and I ordered a 13MM thinking that was like original. It was to big. Two orders later I got it right. The belt sits like it should now. Same as the crankshaft and water pump pulleys.

I also unwrapped all of the ribbed aluminum panels I bought hoping to get at least one set of tailgate panels. No way as literally all of it was scratched. What a waste. I hope to get the replacement order in soon. And that it is all in good shape.

I need to go scratch all my bug bites now. More later.
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Most users ever online was 656, 06-30-2007 at 09:50 PM.
I was there! Still waiting for my Tee shirt...

1969 1414X Wag,
1970 and 71 project J trucks
1970 Wagoneer Not Sadie
1953 Willy's wagon
1983 FJ60 wagon

Last edited by Kaiserjeeps : 05-19-2018 at 11:37 PM.
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  #1505  
Old 05-20-2018, 09:09 AM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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Join Date: Apr 26, 2012
Location: Lompoc and Sunland, CA
Posts: 920
Looks like original.

When I replaced the window channels on my '63 Ford PU about 35 years ago I had to buy two rights from Ford and remove one channel from the frame and install it in the other.

No internet back then to find all this aftermarket stuff.

I just used pop rivets. Had to make an extension to fit down between the felt.
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  #1506  
Old 05-20-2018, 06:57 PM
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Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
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Join Date: Oct 02, 2002
Location: Mooseville Northern Idaho
Posts: 1,766
I might have put a bit more pressure than I needed to. I also wondered about a light coat of 30 WT oil on the upper die. I think I will try that on the fronts.
No room for pop rivets under the rubber glass seals. That would have been a lot easier and cheaper. This is all good stuff though. Now I can set rivets on other things too.

And I wonder how we got anything done pre internet. It was a lot of phone calls and only half the results. I am amazed what can be found online now. But that is about all I appreciate about the internet. If it were not for the dozens of projects I have going I think I would avoid it. Everything has it's good and bad though.
Several of Sadies parts came from around the world. So I guess I am indeed grateful for being able to find them.

I hope the grills get done this week. The powder coater is prompt.
The plastic parts (armrest ends, fender reflectors, etc) I am having plated should be done after next week. 5 Months they have been there.
Onward.
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Am I done yet?

Most users ever online was 656, 06-30-2007 at 09:50 PM.
I was there! Still waiting for my Tee shirt...

1969 1414X Wag,
1970 and 71 project J trucks
1970 Wagoneer Not Sadie
1953 Willy's wagon
1983 FJ60 wagon
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  #1507  
Old 05-20-2018, 07:41 PM
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toddthewelder toddthewelder is offline
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Join Date: Dec 30, 2010
Location: Gene Autry (Ardmore), Oklahoma
Posts: 372
You are always just in time, I just got my rear division bars in and was trying to figure out how I was going to rivet them back together. I also ordered a set of window regulators from speedway, they are universal but I think they will work perfect after I make a new bracket.
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  #1508  
Old 05-21-2018, 10:24 AM
Kaiserjeeps's Avatar
Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
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Join Date: Oct 02, 2002
Location: Mooseville Northern Idaho
Posts: 1,766
Always trying to be of service. That rapco brake rivet tool is nicely made. They have another just like it that is probably china made. It had poor reviews. So you can't go wrong for 37 bucks on the better unit. If you need rivet detail, let me know. And I have some mower spindle left. If you need a tall post adapter for the rapco tool, again let me know.
I am finally getting the front vent window parts to separate. So I can slip the new rubber on the frame. There is a lot of casting slag on the new rubber. Better than nothing I suppose.
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Am I done yet?

Most users ever online was 656, 06-30-2007 at 09:50 PM.
I was there! Still waiting for my Tee shirt...

1969 1414X Wag,
1970 and 71 project J trucks
1970 Wagoneer Not Sadie
1953 Willy's wagon
1983 FJ60 wagon
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  #1509  
Old 05-21-2018, 09:42 PM
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toddthewelder toddthewelder is offline
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Join Date: Dec 30, 2010
Location: Gene Autry (Ardmore), Oklahoma
Posts: 372
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaiserjeeps
Always trying to be of service. I have some mower spindle left. If you need a tall post adapter for the rapco tool, again let me know.
I am finally getting the front vent window parts to separate. So I can slip the new rubber on the frame. There is a lot of casting slag on the new rubber. Better than nothing I suppose.
Al, you have been a great service to everyone in the FSJ community. I'm going to go ahead and say yes I will need the post adapter, just let me know how much and PM me your paypal info and I'll send some $$$ and a shipping address. Thanks for all the help
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Another 87 GW
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  #1510  
Old 05-22-2018, 06:59 AM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toddthewelder
Al, you have been a great service to everyone in the FSJ community....Thanks for all the help
Concur. there are so many bits of "how to" in this build alone, it's worth the investment watching. So awesome.
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  #1511  
Old 05-22-2018, 11:02 PM
Kaiserjeeps's Avatar
Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
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Join Date: Oct 02, 2002
Location: Mooseville Northern Idaho
Posts: 1,766
Thanks guys. It is good to share info. When I lived on the m715 zone there was a guy who would post up a lot of great stuff. When asked how he made it happen he would come right out and say I'm not telling. But if you send me your truck/parts I will fix it for you for a (way to high) fee. We kept telling him what a tool he was being and some people you just can't reach. That is one of the very drivers for me to spread info to enable others to not have to go through the same trials. Just a little back ground there...

So what a day. While trying to get to sleep every night after I say thanks for all the good stuff, I work through the challenges till I think I have a plan. Well it paid off. I was able to figure out how to install the wide lower rear stationary window seal in place with total ease. With zero flexing or stress on an already brittle old seal. I left my camera in the shop so I can post detail tomorrow. I was able to load up the passenger rear door complete with window wipes. I am very disappointed both with the window wipes and the window guide felt insert for the door frame. It won't tuck all the way into the door frame. And, the window won't close all the way. The division bar repair side worked great. But, It is tight to roll up and down because of the replacement felt on the front and top side of the door. I will look at it again tomorrow and post up when I have pictures and hopefully a better working assembly. I may have to source and order better fitting material.

Todd please PM me your shipping address.
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Most users ever online was 656, 06-30-2007 at 09:50 PM.
I was there! Still waiting for my Tee shirt...

1969 1414X Wag,
1970 and 71 project J trucks
1970 Wagoneer Not Sadie
1953 Willy's wagon
1983 FJ60 wagon
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  #1512  
Old 05-23-2018, 10:00 AM
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Frank Ziebert Frank Ziebert is offline
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Join Date: Dec 04, 2016
Location: Sisters, OR
Posts: 490
Great to see you make such progress Al.
Too bad the work season is so short--you know the time between snowed and and fighting fires
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  #1513  
Old 05-23-2018, 08:58 PM
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Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
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Join Date: Oct 02, 2002
Location: Mooseville Northern Idaho
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We had snow a month ago. It has been over 90 several times now. I hope this is not a bad fire season. I have a very long list of must do's for the home.
Thanks for the reminder Frank.

******

So some discoveries on what is not quite right with the door loading lately. I found what is the problem and was able to remedy most of it today. To start with I have been putting roadkill sound deadener in the doors before putting anything in. Hopefully the addition of this stuff will make it ride quiet.




Bring bandaids. The foil is sharp as a razor. I have shed a lot for blood for this build.

Cut to shape and pressed in. Maximum bond in 72 hours.



Then here is what was troubling me for how to get it done without damaging the older rubber. I used to force the lower seal down through the door when taking them apart. That trashes them. I tried easing it up through the window gap and so far none of them have done well. Somewhere there is a 95 year old person who did this all day quickly at the Jeep factory. I kept thinking about how it must have been done. It worked and here is what I did for the rear doors stationary windows.

Install the window frame and turn it upside down on a table and apply duct tape to the top and back of the frame. This is to keep the glass from moving on you later.



Take the new division bar and stainless including the seal off. Insert the division bar and the taped window plus frame into the door. Attach the top of the division bar with the two screws.



Insert the assembly in the door frame and screw in the three mini countersunk screws that hold this in. Then carefully pull the division bar and rubber seal back lightly bending the upper part you just screwed together. Have very soapy water handy and soak the stationary window frame, glass, and the wide rubber seal on both sides with lots of soap. While pulling back on the division bar ease the rubber strip into the frame and under the glass. It helped to reach into the door and with a finger pull the metal frame down to widen the gap between the glass and frame. Start pushing the seal into place. Run it all the way home.



Soak the division bar rubber seal groove and the glass edge with soapy water. Ease the division bar back in place making sure the lower mount with the two screw holes makes it under the frame and not between the frame and seal.

Install the window glass in the door and carefully rotate it to the correct orientation with the slotted channel "U" shape facing the outer door skin.
Slip the glass into the door frame new window glass channel felt. Make sure it is all the way in. Reach in the door and twist the new division bar easing the glass into the lower part of the new division bar. Work it up the glass and when you get to the top of the glass it helps to lift that end of the glass window to help it snap into the groove. Here is the fun part. Get a flashlight and a mirror, a really long phillips screwdriver and put one of the two screws on the screwdriver. Using the mirror ease the screw up into either one of the mounting holes for the window frame. Don't put these screws in before this as the division bar needs to twist to get the glass back in. This is what it looks like done and tight. Now you can lower the glass and put the bottom division bar angle mount on securing the division bar permanently to the inner door skin.



So it worked great. No forcing much of anything.
Now the glass run channels are aftermarket. They just do not fit well. It makes the window super tight and looks bad. I don't know if the suppliers all sell the same thing, but I suspect they do. This is what I found.

The aftermarket channel has an extra rib on each side. This does not allow the new glass run to seat into the door right. You can try all you want. It won't go in. A very poor fit.



I went and got an old door. I pulled out and cut off about an inch of factory stuff. This is how it is supposed to fit. Look at the sides. They are snug in the frame.



A total pain but I decided to try and shave both sides of the new product down. It was hard to not gouge rubber I wanted to leave alone. Fortunately it is all hidden.



I mounted the rubber in a vise and did it again. The flatter you get this the better it will fit. Here is the rubber flap all shaved off. Now we are talking!



Look how much better it fits. Like it should have out of the package.



The drivers rear door window now will slowly fall under it's own weight eventually ending up all the way open. I had to tape it up to load out the rest of the parts in the door. It works just great now.

The window wipes I bought are still marginal. I am not happy with them. At least the window can be used now. But the wipes make it worse than it should be.

I will be looking for a better match for glass run channel. If I find it I may start selling it or post up the better product. I doubt I will be notifying the two FSJ suppliers as they can source their own. Who ever thought the stuff currently being sold was good enough was wrong. It does not work without major shaving and does not even come close to fitting the door frame.

That is all I have today. I thought I would be done with the doors by now. Story of my life.
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Am I done yet?

Most users ever online was 656, 06-30-2007 at 09:50 PM.
I was there! Still waiting for my Tee shirt...

1969 1414X Wag,
1970 and 71 project J trucks
1970 Wagoneer Not Sadie
1953 Willy's wagon
1983 FJ60 wagon
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  #1514  
Old 05-23-2018, 09:27 PM
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toddthewelder toddthewelder is offline
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Join Date: Dec 30, 2010
Location: Gene Autry (Ardmore), Oklahoma
Posts: 372
I'm not impressed with how mine fits either, I may be trying your trick. Why doesn't anyone make the seal for the stationary window?
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Old 05-24-2018, 05:52 AM
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81jseries 81jseries is offline
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Join Date: Aug 31, 2001
Location: MD
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I'm always impressed with your attention to the smallest details. That roadkill stuff looks interesting, going to look into that now.
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Old 05-24-2018, 01:59 PM
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SOLSAKS SOLSAKS is offline
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Join Date: Jul 25, 2016
Location: Benson. NC
Posts: 317
dang,......

wonderful work on everything
the lettering in the chrome badges looks great.

cant wait to see the full view of this FSJ when complete.

thanx for posting for us to enjoy.

dave in NC
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  #1517  
Old 05-25-2018, 09:33 PM
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Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
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Join Date: Oct 02, 2002
Location: Mooseville Northern Idaho
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I enjoy the this too Dave. I just wish I was a little quicker to produce....

*****
So lookie here. I got a call from Glenn at G-car that my plastic parts were done. It has been a bit as he is super busy. I can say that good things do take time.
I drove out to his shop and picked everything up.
These parts look better than the metal parts I had chromed. I was darn near stunned.



With some new reflectors...



And wow.... Even though Sadie is getting a NOS glove box door clock, I had two of these done for Sadie and myself. I think these look better than factory ones.



And of course I had 8 arm rest ends done for the build there in the background. Everything looks great.

Here is the place. He is very busy, Expect to wait some.

http://gcartrim.com/

So I have been taking apart the wing window assemblies. But not before a plan on getting them back together. I had to bend the upper mount open to drill and later rivet it back up. I also had to do some of the smallest machining I have ever done. I turned 9 (need 8) rivets for the rubber seal in the vent frame. They were very small.



Here they are. Two left to do. These are for the rubber seal on the vent window side of the division bar I need to replace. I have yet to see if they are strong enough with being thinned out and reduced in diameter. The little corroded one up front there is what I am trying to duplicate.



I finished Todds adapter button for his Rapco brake rivet tool from Aircraft spruce company.



I will send it off Tuesday. Sorry I did not make it and get it sent before the long weekend there Todd. I had to go to Montana and back today. A very long day on the road. Their speed limit is 80 MPH! Sweeeet!
__________________
------------------------------------
Am I done yet?

Most users ever online was 656, 06-30-2007 at 09:50 PM.
I was there! Still waiting for my Tee shirt...

1969 1414X Wag,
1970 and 71 project J trucks
1970 Wagoneer Not Sadie
1953 Willy's wagon
1983 FJ60 wagon

Last edited by Kaiserjeeps : Yesterday at 10:25 PM.
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