203/205 doubler ingredients

[JeepsAndGuns]

I tore apart my ford 203 to seperate the range box. After I was done I inspected the laft over parts and found that the rest of the 203 is not completely useless. I pulled the yokes and found them to be 32 spline, and exactly the same as the ones on my 205. And also the front output bearing retainer is also the same as my 205. I dont know if everyone already knows this or not, but figured I would pass it on just in case. I know two yokes and bearing retainer are not mutch, but you never know when you might break one. Now I dont know if the same it true for the chevy 203's or not, but you could check if your tearing one apart. You never know.


And while on the subject of the 205's. Where can I get the best quality rebuild kit for one? I see them on ebay, but I have no clue of the quality of the bearings and seals. I always kinda prefer timkin brand bearings when I can get them. And also the best seals I can get, either timkin or national. So anyone know where to get the best rebuild kit?

[Tigger4X]

Northwest Fab was recommended to me because of the clocking ring. Although, I've heard there are shipping problems due to NWF being located in Cananda --- it takes a while to receive it

When it comes to a doubler kit all I can say is that Northwest Fab is

And whats a coupla extra days for shipping when it comes to a superior set-up.

All I am waiting on now is my high steer/crossover kit and a few other odds and ends and I should be


Best of luck with your doubler and keep on

[Elliott]

I found that with my 3" body lift I could clock the front output down from where I had it by raising everything else up to level with the frame, this put the rear output up 3" higher (I'm fixing to CV it anyway so I'm not worried about the rear angle. May have to tilt the radiator to match the fan angle... or may even go electric by the time that's all squared away. I'm working in a 205 torque brace as well, then need to flange the ends of the crossmember to bolt it to the vertical part of the frame rail. Need to get some 1" poly bushings for the adaptor mount.

[orangecherokee]

looks snug Elliot. I'm also thinking of bracing my 205. i think i'll be boxing the frame first and then doing it.

[4x4fEvEr]

where do you get the parts or how do u get the 205 clocked up?

[Elliott]

I used a NW Fab Doubler that allows for clocking.
(with the exception of my rotating the bolt pattern a lil on my GM 203 to match the Ford NP435 adaptor I think my clocking is just about the same now as OEM GM... the body lift allows me to raise it to clear the bottom of the frame).
If you need to clock a 205 and aren't using a doubler there is an adaptor you can find on Ebay that will clock a figure 8 pattern GM 205.

[4x4fEvEr]

yeah i was wanting to clock the 205 since i cant afford to build my doulbler and i want to wheel sooner than later. i dont have the figure eight pattern on my ford 205 does that mean theres no hope"?

[Elliott]

Ah, you've got the Ford 205... that doesn't seem like it would need clocking, but there is a guy on Pirate (a vendor) that sells various clocking rings and could prolly build you one if he doesn't have it already and they are like $65 or something.

[JeepsAndGuns]

Just pulled apart my range box to give it a good cleaning (thing is a ball of goo) and check everything inside it. Man this thing hs the bigest mess of needle bearings on the counter gear I have ever seen, three rows worth of them. But anyway, I got the thing all apart and it looks like there has been a GOOD ammount of grinding going on between the input gear and the shift coller. I am not too worried about the input because I have to get a 32 spline one anyways. But I am not too sure on re useing the shift coller. I dont want the chewed up teeth to mess up a new input. So is there anywhere I can get a new shift coller? It is a ford 203 range box.

[Elliott]

The shift collar will be the same regardless of what the 203 mated to. Find someone with a parted case (GM TH350 27 spline is the most common) and get the part from them or find a parted case on ebay. Not sure of any place that would stock the parts... but someone has a stripped range box they tore down for the 32 spline input.

[orangecherokee]

why yes someone does

[JeepsAndGuns]

why yes someone does

Would it be anyone that would be willing to sell the said shift coller?

[4x4fEvEr]

help!

i cannot for the life of me get the shift rail out of this 205 so i can twin stick it!!! i read that the front output shift rail needs to be in neutral. only position i can get that rail in is 4wd which is all the way in, 2wd which seems to be the next notch in and neutral owuld be the shift rail goin in even farther? if it is it wont go and im stuck

[j20brett]

you punched out the roll pin right?

[JeepsAndGuns]

If I remember correctly, the front output, all the way in would be 4x4, in the middle is N, and all the way out would be 4low. I think the rear output is the same. All the way out would be in drive, in the middle is N, and all the way in is low.

If your haveing trouble moveing the rails, take the shift rail popet balls and springs out. You have to do that anyway to remove the rear output shift rail. I found I could not move the rails by hand untill I did that. Also IIRC, the rear output shift rail needs to be in N to line up the roll pin with the hole in the case.